While much of the new part of town — on the far side of the river — was destroyed by WWII bombs, the historic Old Town survived. Thanks to its charming Old Town, splendid Baroque churches, one of Europe's largest medieval fortresses, and so many great places nearby, Salzburg feels designed to keep its visitors happy. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Admission is free, but donations are prominently requested. Learn more about the Rick Steves Audio Europe app or download the app now: Prefer podcasts? Rick: But this is after breakfast and you're still quite busy. The courtyard was the main square of this hilltop community of a thousand — which could be self-sufficient when necessary. Share your candid opinions about hotels and restaurants or ask other travelers about their reviews. The tiny train station is across Lake Hallstatt from the postcard-pretty town by the same name: Hallstatt. Salzburg and Vienna will always have part of my heart! A briny spring sprung here, attracting Bronze Age people. To properly enjoy this lavish palace — once the prince-archbishop's summer palace and now the seat of the mayor — get a ticket to a Schlosskonzert (my favorite venue for a classical concert; the palace is otherwise closed to visitors). It's Austria's Salzkammergut lake district, where the "the hills are alive," and you're surrounded by the scenic wonder that has enthralled nature lovers from Emperor Franz Josef to Julie Andrews. Nine years later, a little boy was born — Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. You don't go to Salzburg to avoid the tourists. And this evening the Twins Quartet from Moscow play Mozart's Eine kleine Nachtmusik. Iron crosses were cheaper than carved tombstones. Vienna. If you dug under these buildings, you'd find Roman and pre-Roman Celtic pavement stones from the ancient and prehistoric salt depot. In good Baroque style, the art is symbolic, cohesive, and theatrical...creating a kind of festival procession that leads to the resurrected Christ triumphing high above the altar. Swans patrol the lake like they own it. The palace's bubbly gardens, famously featured in The Sound of Music, are free and open until dusk. Donate to the band, and a maiden gives you a shot of schnapps. For fans, it's almost a pilgrimage. The core of this book is five self-guided walks and tours that zero in on Munich's greatest sights and neighborhoods, plus two chapters on the best day trips (to Salzburg and to Neuschwanstein Castle). With around eight million visitors prowling its cobbled lanes each year, Salzburg can feel pretty touristy. This giant Baroque church, where Mozart was baptized and later served as organist, boats exceptional stucco work, five organs, and lots of light (it doesn't have stained glass, and never did — just clear windows to let light power the message). And while you await your strudel, you can feed the swans. For centuries, Salzburg's leaders were both important church authorities and political rulers. Rick: And what is schnapps? Then home. Since it had no road access, people came and went by boat. Each summer it hosts its famous Salzburg Festival. It was the harnessing of wind and water power with mills like this that helped kick the economy into gear and lift Europe out of what many call the "Dark Ages." see our FAQ. Sitting in the center of Europe is Austria. Best of all, it comes with a fun funicular ride to the Rudolfsturm "Skywalk" Viewpoint, with stunning panoramas over the town and lake. You go to experience a town that, in spite of the crowds, is thoroughly enjoyable. If you have yet to tour a salt mine, consider visiting Hallstatt's, which is still active, producing 1.1 million tons of salt each year (mostly used for road salt, though you can also buy souvenir shakers of table salt). Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. They dissolved it into a brine, which flowed through miles of pipes — the oldest hewn out of logs — to Hallstatt and nearby towns where the brine was, and still is, cooked until only the salt remained. The other couple chose the restaurant and it was Wilder Man. The one in Fuschl am See (closest to Salzburg) is a little cheaper, and takes about 10 minutes for the ride up and down. They're popular with big-city families who want the opportunity to stay on a farm, to learn to ride, and just get away from the intensity of urban life. From the castle take a stroll across the forested Mönchsberg hill for a breezy respite from the city, and more commanding views. If you're driving between Salzburg and Hallstatt, you'll pass two luge rides operated by the same company; each course is just off the road with easy parking. While the bone chapel is fascinating...there's more life down on the town square. These canals powered about 100 watermills in Salzburg, which were busily cranking as late as the 19th century. The countryside around Salzburg has plenty of farmhouse B&Bs. St. Sebastian Cemetery is a quiet oasis in Salzburg. Waiters only bring beer; they don't bring food — instead, go up the stairs, survey the hallway of deli counters, grab a tray, and assemble your own meal (or, as long as you buy a drink, you can bring in a picnic — many do). You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting Salzburg and Hallstatt.Rick covers the essentials, including Berchtesgaden and the Salzkammergut. This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. This collection of lovingly tended graves abuts the sheer rock face of the Mönchsberg (free, silence requested). Most of the happy tourists probably wouldn't be here if not for the man honored by this statue. It was here that Mozart learned to play piano and violin and composed his first boy-genius works. see our FAQ. While this particular tunnel dates only from 1719, Hallstatt's mine claims to be the oldest in the world. Thanks for joining us. The lake is a playground for visitors in rental boats, which come with two speeds: slow and stop. Follow me for a little walk and enjoy a rare opportunity to drill deep into the mausoleum of a prince-bishop. Salzburgers are forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Try Rick Steves Best of Germany . See search results for this author. This square, with its striking cathedral and Italian-style palace was the centerpiece of his Baroque dream city. Salzburg's wealth was based on salt. This fountain could be straight out of Italy. Those Augustinians must have been the most popular monks in town for their rollicking beer garden. Its ramparts provide the best views of the city. While fires have been a recurrent problem, many houses go way back. It's one of many throughout the region that offer tours. Inside you'll find:Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and moneyShort itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the … To get to the Panoramabar from the main part of the library, you take a diagonally-moving elevator, which was a new experience for me. Is that right? Since it was built in only about 15 years, the church boasts particularly harmonious art and architecture. The Triton matches Bernini's famous Triton Fountain in Rome. Salzburg, which grew rich from the salt trade long ago, is touristy but still enjoyable today. Good ones, like this one near the town of Werfen; give you a chance to experience the richness of Austria's rural life. Austria — with its Germanic passion for quality — is enthusiastic about organically grown fruits and vegetables. Rent bills are sent out about every 10 years. Thanks for joining us. Auf Wiedersehen. and staying 2-3 nights (2 full days). It seems each plot is lovingly tended by relatives. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, And Alfred's not the only one with that idea. It's simple: push to go, pull to break...a treat for kids of all ages. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. The well dipped into a rain-fed cistern. Its cannons evoke both threats of centuries past and the power of Salzburg's rulers. Smaller text Larger text. Fair enough. The Weissacher family rents a couple of simple yet comfy rooms to supplement their farm income. Rick- Glad to see that you are re-visiting some places that are among the favorites of my husband and myself- due to your TV show. To build "the Rome of the North.". Through the centuries, Hallstatt was busy with the salt trade. Choose from these three free options to listen to Rick Steves' Austria & Germany Audio Tours of Vienna, Salzburg, and Germany: Get the Audio Europe app! Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Germany's Munich and the Foothills of the Alps, ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Since the views from the fortress are more exciting than the exhibits, it makes sense to visit late in the day, when admission is much cheaper (and for a bit after the museums' closing time, depending on the season, you can walk up and enter the grounds for free). ▲ DomQuartier Museums Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich's Residenz palace, cathedral viewpoint, and religious art. ▲▲ Hellbrunn Palace Lavish palace on the outskirts of town featuring gardens with trick fountains. When he was 25 he was ready for the big city and moved to Vienna. This huge 1,000-seat beer garden within a monk-run brewery in the Kloster Mülln, is rustic and raw. And the Steckerlfisch...now that's my kind of fish stick! With the scarcity of level land, tall homes had their front door on the street level top floor and their water entrance several floors below. The Mozart family was successful enough to entertain Salzburg's high society in this fine room. Lightweight, yet packed with info on the cities' history and culture, Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg truly is a tour guide in your pocket. — is named for this once-important spot. From Salzburg, as above re Werfen Castle and ice caves, plus St Gilgen and Wolfgangsee for choice, all easy to reach. The birthplace of Mozart — and everyone's Sound of Music fantasies — Salzburg is a Baroque jewel of a town. Different strokes, I guess. In this compact guide, Rick Steves covers all the essentials of Munich, Bavaria, and Salzburg. We're heading two hours southeast of Salzburg to my favorite Salzkammergut town on my favorite Salzkammergut lake. The fun-loving, proud, and English-speaking Sporer family pours homemade spirits for regular customers and curious visitors alike. Rick Steves Best of Germany: With Salzburg Hit Germany's can't-miss art, sights, and bites in two weeks or less with Rick Steves Best of Germany! Lying on a busy trade route connecting northern Europe with the south, Salzburg was well aware of the exciting things going on in Italy. Though I don’t consider it my job to breathlessly promote every destination that comes down the pike…rather, I try to give hard opinions in the spirit of the king of hard travel opinions, Rick Steves. Visit the grand cathedral (where Mozart performed) and Mozart’s childhood homes. ▲ St. Sebastian Cemetery Baroque cemetery with graves of Mozart's wife and father. Rick Steves' Europe. In 1747, Leopold Mozart — a musician in the prince-archbishop's band — moved into this small rental unit with his new bride. On balmy summer evenings, this brewery has the ambience of a Renoir painting as all generations gather under the chestnut trees, as they have for centuries, to enjoy cheap food, good beer, and that special local coziness called "Gemütlichkeit." Austria specializes in a knack for conviviality. Today, the people of Salzburg are happy to pay a premium for the reliably fresh and top-quality produce. The oar lock is still made of the gut of a bull. ▲ Mirabell Gardens and Palace Beautiful palace grounds and concert venue with fine views and Sound of Music memories. Mozart performed for the prince-archbishop right here. We too will be in Scandanavia (Oslo) (and London) soon- we fly out Thursday night. Set your sights on the spire of the Augustinian Church, and you'll find what seems like half of Salzburg feasting and drinking. Oh...that's good. Stefanie (a boat) meets each arriving train and glides scenically across the lake into town. (photo: Rick Steves) Those who climb (or ride) up to Salzburg's fortress are treated to … Back then, salt was so precious because it preserved meat, and Hallstatt was, as its name means, the "place of salt.". Inside Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find: Comprehensive coverage for spending two weeks or more exploring Vienna, Salzburg and Tirol Rick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites That's because in Austria, grave sites are rented, not owned. Then, get set to fly. Family of five (two young adults, one teen) Stuttgart and Munich advice. And in Salzburg, there's no better place to experience that than here at the Augustiner Bräustübl. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. Herr Sporer: Yes, there are many fruits in Austria and we distill almost everything. (17:24). This one dates from 1597. In the tour you'll learn the story of salt. Wolfgang Mozart spent much of his first 25 years in Salzburg — one of the greatest Baroque cities north of the Alps. At the mine, visitors slip into overalls, meet their guide, and hike into the mountain. It's also a musical mecca, and the city puts on a huge annual festival as well as constant concerts. Its bone chapel — or charnel house (Beinhaus) — contains more than 600 skulls (free to enter church, but small fee for bone chapel; open daily May–Sept 10:00–18:00, Oct 10:00–16:00, closed Nov–April). From our home base in Salzburg, we side trip into the Salzkammergut lake district — Lake Hallstatt and the town by the same name. we drove from Salzburg; it was easy (something like under 2 hours, as I recall), but do know people who did it by train. St. Peter's Church Romanesque church with Rococo decor. On this tour of Germany and Austria, your Rick Steves guide will bring this region's rich history and culture to life in festive Munich, Baroque Salzburg, sparkling Lake Hallstatt, monastic Melk, the blue Danube, and royal Vienna — with cozy villages and alpine vistas all along the way. Rick: OK. Herr Alfred Lenz makes the town's traditional boats from a 200-year-old design. You'll still see the traditional Fuhr boats, designed to carry heavy loads in shallow water. Its name basically means "salt fortress." Salzburg's cathedral, constructed in the early 1600s, was one of the first grand Baroque buildings north of the Alps. The banks of the Salzach River — ideal for strolling and biking — were once medieval tow paths. Enjoy the lake-country view as you're dragged up the mountain. I hope you've enjoyed exploring this part of Austria — with the high culture and history of Salzburg, and the natural splendor of the Salzkammergut lake district. ▲ Mönchsberg Walk "The hills are alive" stroll you can enjoy right in downtown Salzburg. Hallstatt's Catholic church overlooks the town from above. It has very nice views of Salzburg, the surrounding mountains, and the fortress (far in the distance). When it's cool outside, enjoy a historic indoor setting in any of several beer-sloshed and smoke-stained halls (one of which is still for smokers). Mozart spent a good part of his childhood on the road, performing all over Europe. They were "prince-archbishops" — combining both political and religious power. A steep funicular runs up the mountain to Hallstatt's salt mine. Thanks for joining us. Thanks to its charming Old Town, splendid Baroque churches, one of Europe's largest medieval fortresses, and so many great places nearby, Salzburg feels designed to keep its visitors happy. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling in Munich, Bavaria, and Salzburg. The surrounding Mirabell Gardens, laid out in 1730, are a favorite with locals and tourists alike. Salzburg is steeped in history. Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and money; Short itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the Romantic Road, the Rhine Valley, and Berlin, plus Salzburg, Austria; Rick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist traps; The best of local culture, flavors, and haunts, including walks through museums and atmospheric neighborhoods For generations, the traditional salt miners' band has entertained their town. His goal? Rick Steves' Europe. The town, which originated as a salt-mining center, is one of Europe's oldest, going back centuries before Christ. Buy your token, choose a mug —two choices: big and HUGE, give it a rinse…and fill 'er up. Herr Sporer: You sip it, yes. The hills are alive with the sound of music... …was named after this once-important spot. Last time I stayed in the Hotel Elephant, and it was very good, small rooms, central and it had air conditioning..which many in old bldgs do not have. ▲▲ Sound of Music Tour Bus or bike through S.O.M. Music and the visual art complement each other. So far I have us flying into Prague, spending 3 or 4 nights, taking a driver to Salzburg (Or an overnight train to Salzburg?) Its 500-year-old altars and frescoes feature Hallstatt's two favorite saints: St. Barbara (patron of miners) and St. Catherine (patron of foresters) — lots of wood was needed to fortify the many miles of tunnels and boil the brine to distil out that salt. This is Sound of Music country. 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